Yellow Dragonfruit Cactus

NOTE: This is just an overview, we are working on a blog entry complete with photos and detailed instructions on the art of acclimating tissue culture plants. If you're interested and want to be notified as soon as it's published. Just contact us and we'll be glad to put your contact on our list!

Terrariums etc.

If you plan on using these plants in a humid terrarium, paludarium, vivarium, or Wabi Kusa, you can go ahead and plant them straight from the cups as long as the humidity in your habitat is above 80%. If your terrarium is dryer, follow the general instructions below. You can transfer your plants to your terrarium after just partially acclimating them. They will finish the process themselves.

For those looking to turn these in-vitro Tissue Culture cups into disease-free, sustainable, and unique house plants, we have some general instructions for successfully growing your many, many, baby plantlets into beautiful mature adult plants that we picked specifically because they are some of the favorites among our staff. Also, because of the TC process, in-vitro-cultured plants can be very attractive, and produce a lot of main shoots for a bushier appearance.

While our aquatic plants have been engineered to require no acclimatization at all, terrestrial plants have to be grown under very high humidity for a while until they fully develop a thicker waxy covering to prevent water loss while developing a root system to support the water needs of the plant.

Unless you know exactly what you are doing, most people should take at least a glance over these general guidelines and your plants will be hanging from your living room ceiling or gracing your coffee table in a matter of weeks. The experience is wonderfully rewarding and the skills you learn will make you a better parent for all your plants. 

There are few things more empowering, therapeutic, and downright satisfying than admiring (a) beautifully growing rare or unusual plant(s) knowing you grew them out from a four-ounce deli cup!

General Acclimatization Guide

• Prepare a suitable container that can be almost entirely sealed off and maintain almost 100% humidity. A clear, tall, 32oz take-out container is perfect. 
  • Cover the bottom with about one and a half inches of coarse rocks like large pebbles for drainage. Cover that with a thin layer of activated carbon (optional) if available.
  • Choose the best substrate for the plant. Often Sphagnum, Coco coir, or something similar works great. Our recommendation is actually aquarium substrate - specifically the kind that looks like little round balls but is not overly rich in nutrients. Fluval Stratum works great - stay away from ADA Amazonia. 
  • Fill your container with water. Not all plant species need the same amount of water so do your research (or ask us). Generally, enough water to keep the substrate moist without choking the roots is ideal but many of our plants are specifically evolved for humid and moist conditions and live in waterlogged soil.
  • If you're not sure about anything, just shoot us a message. We're here to help and absolutely love helping our customers' succeed.
• Remove your TC Plantlets with roots intact using a nice pair of tweezers - there are often a lot of independent plantlets in a TC cup, each capable of becoming beautiful, full-fledged adult so treat each with respect and don't cram them all too densely in the same container. If you need to, eat more takeout. Plant a few close to the clear sides container so you get a better view of growth under the surface. 
• Make sure you have an air hole or someway for the newly photosynthesizing plants to exchange gases without drying them out. Cracking the lid or drilling a 1/4" hole works really well.
• Keep your plants somewhere well-lit but out of direct sunlight unless it's for a very short amount of time daily. Some plants with higher light demands benefit. For most, indirect sunlight or a specialty grow light works very well.
• Your plants will begin growing shortly. You may notice, around this time, most media will be prone to developing mold during the early stages when the humidity is so high. Visible mold should be removed but it's best to avoid mold problems, to begin with. Aquatic plant substrate (such as Stratum), does not get moldy so we highly recommend using these if you can!
• Gradually reduce the humidity in the container each day by slowly pulling back or cracking the lid wider. Don't get too crazy and watch new growth for signs of water pressure. Older leaves may dry up and die but that is natural, it is the new growth and the growing shoot tip(s) that matter.
• At some point, your plant will start producing new growth fairly quickly. You'll know when you can ditch the lid.
• Depending on your plant, it may overgrow the "deflasking" container or you want it to get big so just repot it, as usual, taking extra care to avoid damaging the roots. 

For the most part, acclimatizing terrestrial plants from in-vitro Tissue Culture is a lot of fun and you mind find yourself with a ton of extra houseplants that we've specifically chosen for their interesting characteristics, relative rarity, and ease of care. They make amazing gifts for friends and family for any occasion. A really cool, living plant can be a source of joy, pride, and delight for its owner and will be appreciated much more than most casual or 'bad' gifts that are exchanged...